22/04/2017 - UNIT 7 COMPLETE LAST EVER REFLECTION EVER
Portfolio is finished - worked hard to also make my design drawings technical as I can colour a bit mad with the crayon and leave them a bit confusing for others. Evualtion complete - was beneficial to do as it helped me to lay out in clear where my project will go next and how I can develop myself as a designer - which is do more experiments that aren't neesscily linked with fashion and creating as you will produce new and more exciting silhouettes by doing so.
20/04/2017 - EXHIBITION HAND IN DEADLINE
Finished my sketchbook - really used my imagery of my own shoot to push aesthetic in my sketchbook to show my skills in this area too to tell a story as previous my sketchbook has been a lot more working designs book - it is exciting to push yourself to change it up and show other skills. bloom is complete.
shoot for 2nd year womenswear and another for foundation jewellery student - very important o give direction in shoots
18/04/2016 - WOMENSWEAR FOUNDATION FINAL SHOOT AND THE V AND A MUSEUM
Was first in line for shoot - happy that I have shot my own garments previously as I was only able to shoot one look due to time. Found this shoot very restrictive as we were under so much time pressure so unsure of how well the photographs will portray my garment.
Modelled for Toms final Shoot - shoot wasn't going to plan - think on your feet and help asset from an outsiders point of view
Went to the V and A to check the authority of my concept linking to Rwandas heritage
Worked on sketchbook and making my quick drawn design developments more readable for other - going to take it further into an illustration a page of my final line up - need to write in my workflow research very important
14/04/2017 - FINAL BLOOM SHOOT
Final shoot was a huge success - the photographs are quite eternal and dark yet light and free at the same time ! ah so excited for them to be seen - was really scary for me working with a photographer at the start as I like to be in control of everything and know the angles I want the garments to be portrayed at and the story I need them to tell. However the girl I worked with is an amazing photographer so it was actually a huge relief to be able to just focus on the poses and be free to creative direct my shoot and make sure the garments were looking their best
13/04/2017 - Exhibition Crit at CSM
Went in for the crit and was so confused about the proceedings as I thought they were planning on picking out th garments etc for the exhibition but nothing really happened and then we had a sort of group crit but didn't really feel like that helped either as we are so near the end and the garments are made their isn't really time to change much and its just out you under time pressure. however it did help me to put stuff in order that I need to complete before deadline
Garments are finished and ready for thursdays crit for exhibition selection !! ah can't believe it. all the linings are still pinned in which I can handset when I get home for the shoot so over exhausted but had to plan ahead as I am modelling for another shoot tomorrow so need to be prepared for my day to be taken over again tomorrow. Just need to fins pinning in the garments and prepare for ym final shoot.
Focusing on pinning the last two sleeve linings and ruffles together and sewing them. took all day because of how this the ruffles are all the shapes of the sleeves - very pleased with the result - have sewed togetrh and they look very thick. need to make sure when i insert the closed cleve it does flop over which I will do by pulled the edges of the ruffles out over the sleeve winning causes the weight to fall out of the sleeve rather then in
Had a shoot for toothache magazine all morning and then got home and cut patterns and began to fit the torso part of the jacket top. very tricky pattern cutting as wanted the jacket to look as if it is too tight and therefore can't be done up but in a loose way. tried in many different ways pinning the jacket on the mannequin but found the best way was to dart and pleat in teat the back - pulling it together and then hem and cut the jacket lapels done the diagonally forcing the fabric to splay apart rather then manipulating the fabric to do so as that just made it look to pleated and unnatural and bulky.
attached the gingham ruffle detail to the top - used purple gingham bias binging with overlays of the white hessian fabric on top and bottom to bleed out the colour so that the slight purple connects with the trousers but doesn't over bear them. the frayed effect very strong but feel like it doesn't work with the trousers so will cut of loses ends otherwise the piece doesn't look finished. As i have to cut out my own patterns and recreate ruffles I think that I will only stick to the four pieces and not include five asI don't feel I will have enough time especially as my fifth design is so tricky. I also think my final piece will be stronger shot on twins rather then with a third daismilliar party.
Cut patterns of top that goes with the trousers - had to be technical as wanted a gathered base was informed by the school uniform idea of my research into the ads at the Rwandan school that I worked at. This style of pattern cutting for gathering was new tome but very simple to pick up. Hopefully the pattern willl work as I haven't completed this technique before. Want to keep the top very light and delicate also used a white hessian light fabric as didn't wanted the pieces to look too paired w- will do the same for the other look. think will include gingham ruffles to link to the school element - a the bloom of the children growth into new rwanda
Finally the outer skin of the trousers is finished and all boned and interfaced with buckram and heavy interfacing. It holds a lot more structure then the toile which is important as the ruffles are thick and heavy so can make the trouser legs close around the leg to much so you can’t see the ruffles as clearly. i solved this problem by putting more structure through boning and buckram in the trousers legs and making the trouser pattern wider with a larger hem.
I cut my patterns for the final trousers - I want to make four or five pieces from this project because due to the external interest I have designed capsule collection and I feel that whether the opputnity pulls through or not I want to make the pieces as I feel that they are more challenging and therefore will make my final outcome more successful for myself. The problems that can arise are it is a lot of work for the time I have given myself and people make question my reason for making more garments. My reason is that the my concept is rooted in coming together and therefore I need to use more than one model to fully communicate this clearly.
Linen fabric has similar characteristics in texture to canvas, but no longer does it look like a toile. I Will begin constructing the structure tomorrow of the trousers, and plan on doing this without boning in order to save time. I feel like the boning is unnecessary as the buckram provides the structure alone.
28/03/2017 - HAUSER AND WORTH GALLERY, BRUTON
Went back to Hauser and Worth to see again Elizabeth Frinks large floaty solid silloheuetes as they produce a similar feeling to my designs fro this project. Soft yet strong rigid. both her and my work is a lot about contrast so I went back to take inspiration from the texture of the harderned clay
went home today and it took me four hours - worked on little designs in my notebook for further garments - as i have an idea of shooting on multiple people in a field in the sun. so want to try and create several looks - good for the stylist too - cara delvinge and mimi wade follow her
lexyrose stylist messaged me on instagram saying she wants to use my clothes for an editorial ! which is amazing but she thinks its a full collection so need to construct a series of look fast to produce a cookbook for her. have a lot of designs anyway so will wait for further clarification to double check she defiantly wants them
Hardcore construction begins proper - made the boned frame last night - buckram takes forearm to work with as it is so stiff also had to prep the buckram as it was a thinner iron on version that I hadn’t used before. Decided on pleated ruffles as they hold the most volume and use the least about of fabric to do so. Learnt that i needed to attach the ruffles on with a lining as it would be impossible to attach it to the bukrum - will shoot the garment tomorrow at csm ready for the 1granary crit.
Meant to have a colour workshop in class today but Chris decided against it and just did a quick explanation on how colour should be used and the control you should have when using it in your sketchbook. Very beneficial as my colour palette really hasn’t been clear throughout this project - I have used an actual blooming flower now as a palette that I saw in Finsbury park but I find it difficult to stick to just those colours when drawing in my book making my pieces unclear. Feedback I got from Chris in my project was to make my designs clear and show how they could be make and in preparation for the toile make sure you can really understand them yourself. So from that I went away and worked on just designing linking back to areas in my project which I felt have been really important such as the copper headpiece drape. Then did a lot of designs influencing my toile from there.20/
Needed to research my concept of banana leaves further so explored photographers that have seres involving leafs - found really beautiful imagery from Jackie Nickersons Terrains series that have given me a lot of shape and inspiration to work with for my drape with the body cast - I really want to involve a lot of leaf shapes and actual leaves in the drape to explore texture as well as shape. Pieter Hugo: 1994 had the most inspiriting and beautiful imagery in terms of concept - focusing on the children of the gencoide pictured them wearing western clothes combining my initial research together and producing very impactful photographs for me as the western world deserted Rwanda during the genocide even through due to them instigating it. Photographs also very much influenced colour palette.
16/03/2016 - Plastic Workshop
Today was a success but not something I will take further. I worked on vacuum forming a large leaf to follow through my ideas of bona leafs that I want to work with to create drape and shape. This produced a really beautiful sample with the leaf trapped inside yet due to the stiffness of the plastic `i don't really feel that it will come into garment as it won't work to create a sophicated shape rather just be rigid and stiff. But it did like the concept of it bing trapped in a plastic coating and the shine that this produced. This was the same with the fabric samples that I laminated (need to work into them for samples) but I think this will help me with my choice of fabric for my toile piece. liked th shine element
From feedback that I need to use my research to inform my shape and silloheutte of the garment I concentrated on using the idea of bloom and growth of flowers both contextually and physically to progress my project. Researching Rwanda's growth came across an article discussing the importance of the banana tree to Rwanda's source of wealth. used my own imagery from Rwanda to enforce the importance of the bona trees and began to collage and design using the shapes of the leaves and bunches of bananas to inform. I have learnt that I need to work more throughly into my drapes to and make my designs more readable to communicate my ideas clearer using my research imagery as backup and reference in my sketchbook. Want to go to plastic workshop tomorrow to work on Petra's suggestion of turning the idea of orangic in my project on its head and creatingng some plastic textile samples
13/03/2017 - PROGRESS TUTORIALS - METAL WORKSHOP - FABRIC SHOPPING
Metal Workshop - would have been maybe better to construct my design out of branches or something cheap and easily malleable before so I understood how to construct it from metal as this took me a lot of time to work out so was perhaps not the most time efficient I could have been. Very pleased with the structure - design and shope informed from Primary Rwandan research of the house shapes to create a wide silhouette. Did draping with Tom on it which I found to be very successful stemming lots of ideas to work on it the sketchbook. Especially on body parts that I don't work a lot with such as the legs front and back. Will continue this tomorrow.
Fabric Shopping - Haven't explored Dalston before for fabric - was expensive but amazing range and varsity - really made me start thinking about the structure of the fabric and the textures of it - I was to try and make some very thick and strong samples maybe experimenting with mod rock to create the hard ragged effect.
Progress Tutorial - went well - feedback I was very helpful - shapes need to come from somewhere not just come from my head. I always use my research to create shape but I think I clearly need to communicate it better in my sketchbook. I feel that these informed drapes that I have just done with Tom will hep my to progress from that. Petra reminded me that this project is for you and you only so you don't have to worry about what other people think and take from it which it actually something that I feel is very important nd I need to keep in mine throughout.
09/03/2017 - Wimbledon Art Show, Peckham
Deconstructed the flower drapes that did on ben into my sketchbook - worked into them successfully with collage and used them from design development. Focused on inspiration from the Burberrys makers show and the national portrait gallery - feeding from the high necks and layers of bodies in rwandas soil.
Wimbledon Art Show - bright colour pallteete strong for my project - textured wool paintings piece - interesting to explore further through samples in my book
08/03/2017 - TURNPIKE LANE ART EXHIBITION FOR CHELSEA COLLAGE
07/03/2017 - UNIT 7
Today we had a college and print workshop shop - didn't find it particularly beneficial as I feel like I am working backwards as this workshop has happened already several times before and it has never lead onto further developments in my projects as I am not a surface designer. However this has lead me to think about using different colours and prints of african fabric for my final piece. Will go fabric hopping nd look to creating my own print using ready printed fabrics and techniques such as ruffles
06/03/2017 - UNIT 7 3D DRAPES WORKSHOP
Today had a photoshoot with NR magazine - took up much for the day - I would like to explore collaboration with them as artists and photographers poteachincally for my final shoot as their work concentrates a lot on flowers and rebirth as a concept within them so could be interesting to discuss my ideas through with them.
Got home and in order to aide my design process i draped bunches of flowers on the body to aide silloheutte and garment detail. Was a successful drape and has started to lead me on to the next part of my process.
Worked on my proposal as after my group crit I realised that I hadn't commicated what was nessacry in it so re wrote my concept and m=now I feel like my idea is much stronger and I have a greater understanding of it.
02/03/2017 - UNIT 7
Its hard getting my brain to work when I'm always thinking about personal things so really struggling with the inspiration for work today - tried to force out some design s and my illustration style has developed really well. I think I just need t find that click that sets me off on this project as I have had my own set backs prior to it.
01/03/2017 - CAMPBELL ADDY PRIVATE VIEW
28/02/2017 - UNIT 7
Today has been very slow - I just need to go home and start doing and get into zones and really focus on ways to not let my personal life affect me and my work. re explaining my concept made me muddle and confused so I just need to concentrate and do me so that I have something to show for it
26/02/2017 - EXHIBITIONS AND READING WEEK
This week I have experienced a large amount of personal trauma, which through trying to deal with I haven’t been able to be as focused and on top of my work as I would like. However, now the initial shock of it I am making it a priority to invest my emotion in my work now and really challenge myself throughout this FMP. My goal for this upcoming week is to have evidence in my sketchbook of intense research and development and fully catch up on the time I have had off due to my own issues. I have collected a lot of research, both from visits to the library and exhibition visits and now I want to started working into it and creating a strong exploratory project. Everything I have completed is ready for the preparation of our FMP so now I am going to start to commit myself and begin.
23/04/2017- 1GRANRY ACRTICLE
Got 1granry article - I really pushed myself so very glad I done it- nice to be published for design as all I get currency is modelling - feel that I have leant from this to really focus ob important criss and make sure I take oppotunitys as you never know where they may lead
shoot this morning for fcp third year - spent rest of the day working on portfolio. really enjoy drawing large scale and producing more illustrative designs - helps me learn to have a greater sensitivity with colour. layout of portfolio also help me improve my aesthetic apron with collage - feedback from tom remember to tell a story in your collage a narrative very important to concider for womenswear next year
19/04/2017 - MODELLING FOR WOMENSWEAR FOUNDATION FINAL SHOOT
Was asked to model the rest of the womenswear looks for foundation today. This was a blessing as it meant I got to shoot my second look on myself. Shoot felt at more comfortable and free to be more creative and in control as the designer. Really happy with the photographs and then just worked on workflow the rest of the day updating my writing and analisis of the imagery.
Garment is finished and shoot is done all ready for the womenswear shoot tomorrow - Just worked on my sketchbook all day consentrating on design and concept development through collage manipulation and drawing. Refining pages in my sketchbook for pages of fastenings and more detailed areas such as that - trying to make my design development less illustrative and more refined so the garments are easier to understand for others - I am solving this problem by using less colour and crayon and focusing on fine liner as this gives a clearer line.
Made BLOOM zine/ lookbook from the photographs on location from shoot at home - consider composition, aesthetic and clarity of the portal of what you want to say and the layout of the pages
Today went over the shots and sent my favourites to the phtogorpaher to edit. Other then that be catching up with my sketchbook by including all my designs in more detail as I have just quickly drawn many of them on random bits of paper in a panic for the stylist so am just going to spend the next few days working on that and catching my workflow up to date with process pics
Finished pinning and packing everything for my shoot as home tomorrow - am shooting at him win collaboration with a fashion photographer from falmouth which is really exciting as i have next produced final imagery in collaboration with someone before. also using a pair of indices twins from home which is one of my main reasons for shooting there as well as the vast grey landscape will provide a dramatic background. Did another soot today for csm first year portfolio and it was interesting for me to get some inside knowledge on that in preparation for next year. they are expected to collaborate with make up artists, stylists and photographers to make it a very professional piece of work whilst working alongside final years. Foundation has been such an important stepping stone and especially Fmp to really help me to understand how to manage my time and push myself when I feel I can't go further.
Had another all day shoot for the final year Csm parsons exchange students so was busy with that all day. Working on these shoots always helps me with inspiration and ideas for my work and shoots - for example this one was very badly organised and the made arrive way too early and the designers were not prepared for how they wanted their garments to be displayed on the model in terms of story telling and pose wise. defiantly taught me to do you research into concepts and communication before your final shoot as the poses were all coming from me and how I portrayed the garment which is fine but I feel that they need to have input into their final shoot. also my vogue spain shoot is out and live which is very exciting !
had another all day photo shoot again for toothache magazine so only managed to attach the sleeves on the jacket but had cut them oversized in the pattern in a similar way to how they were cut in making the other top so that you had to pleat the sleeves in order to make them fit. This produces a really beautiful volumised look to the sleeve see linking well with the flounce of the ruffles
Finally the purple satin fabric came into the shop. Bought the whole roll as don't want panic run out again. Then prepared the ruffles by cutting out the strips and over overlocking them together very slow process. But have found that if I follow the crease in the fabric where it is rolled over on the board they come the most neatest and same size and shape overall. Pinning them into the ruffle winning is very time consuming but also have to be conscious of the canvas showing so many are pinned in
The top is complete ! when the back was gathered the pattern was cut out large enough as I didn't toile the top so it when up high in a half moon shape. However I feel that this really adds to the top and cuts a much more beautiful and delate effect so am happy about that. The gathered base links to the gathered sleeves which keeps falling out so may need to re hand stitch over them in more of a sideways looped running stitch , layering the stitches several times to stop them sliding about as the fabric is a very loose weave. Love the frayed effect not sure whether to pair it with the loose textured ends of the trousers so whether that looks un finished - will ask for feedback
Cut the patterns for my jacket and began the construction of it with the boning. One of my sleeves is very closed and one very open. Received feedback from Tom saying that the more open sleeve looks like a UFO because the edges don’t blend the same way the trousers do. I have taken this into account but feel that this is because the ruffles are not in there as they will cause the sleeve ends to sag in due to the weight. Will was and see but have come up with an alternative of a corseted sleeve is the edges do need to be turned in more
Boning is very important it the structure of the trousers because the buckram flops and doesn't have the same curvature without it. This has created more difficultly for myself as I wasted a lot of time inserting my more buckerm and boning to provide structure. A problem that would have been solved if I studied my toile but didn't think of this till after which is stupid as that is the whole point of the toile! I am now making and inserting many more ruffles to go in my trouser lining which has huge success a lot more volume and decandence is given to the trousers now but it is time commuting and have to wait for the fabric shop to order in more satin in the correct colour. no words from the stylist.
focused on more designs as the stylist emailed me again showing that they are keen - can also use the pieces for my final piece on this project. ready to start they tomorrow so headed back to london tonight
29/03/2017 - LEXYROSE STYLIST
worked on designs for coming up with a top - it is going to be simple and basic so have a couple ideas but its tricky to now which one will be best - will continue working on it when I get back to London as I don’t have a printer at home in Dorset and feel i will understand it best draw over the images of the toile trousers
worked on the joins and hems of my toile - I think i need to cut my patterns around the trouser base bigger and wider so can’t just roll the hem over - floppy fabric with no buckram within it as that is impossible to roll over neatly.taloring in the simple parts of the trouser and other garments is vital to give the pieces that quality look in areas such as the trousers waistband.
23/03/2017 - 1Granary Crit
Shot my garment in collaboration with an FCP student - pushed the garment for the photographs as wanted them to become quite silloheutte defined and obscure and was so so pleased wirth the results - Chris feedback was make the ruffles bigger and more of them and in terms of the top it shouldn’t really involve any purple satin as you don’t want to draw it away from the trousers. 1Granary didn’t interview me but I wasn’t watching my garment all the way through so I don’t know what they thought of it - but fashion and textiles did post it on their instagram which was cool as a lot of people became interested and publicity is so important.
Having worked with structured pieces before - buckram especially being tricky - i began my toile today as I knew how long the process would take. I used actual fabric (purple satin) for the ruffles as I wanted to seen the effect that the colour and texture of the fabric had on the piece and I wouldn’t have understood this impact using canvas all over. The toile was very important as it allowed me time to really understand and think about the contraction of the piece as the pattern cutting part was difficult as smooth circular shapes without darting and pleating are tricky to produce. The final piece of the toile was a success but it did made me realise that I can’t use canvas as my final fabric because it does just look like a toile rather then a finished pieces am now thinking towards linen and other rough fabrics - need to work over the canvas as well to explore the painted rough texture and see if that impacts the piece in a more positive way.
Did the cast drape on Ben - wasn't happy with the photographs as didn't feel like it like the drape was as structured as I wanted and i didn't influence the body regional shape as much as I would have wanted but after working into the images i began fingind shapes that can defiantly inform garment shapes and elements such as a larger collar and multi layered sleeves but need to develop these designs further so that are so obvious to the research.
17/03/2016 - MODELLING FOR KNITWEAR CRIT
Today I modelled for the first year BA Knitwear crit - have done crits before but walking ones not standing ones so this was an interesting insight to see how the format worked and the feedback received. Made me think for next year to ask someone to write down the feedback that you are given as it was difficult for the girl to respond and make notes so she didn't make any a. I know if that was me I would forget it all the second it was over. Success points were the colours and shapes and the element of sportswear involved in the pieces and the links to her research. Went home and continued designs from my banana leaves reseach but feel that they don't really connect or make sense to the rest of my project and not clearly show the direction I want to go in. need to do that casting drape and speak to chris to help me get a clearer sense of direction
15/03/2016 - BODY CASTING
I have been designing very strucally for this project - after looking at the peeling forms of the bona tree I have become every focused on the waist of the body to design fro and am interested of the flaky texture of the trunk and the leaves thus leading me to want to experiment and casting. today I cast my chest and torso to use for a drape to counting to inform my silhouette further. I like the idea of using the body to distort the body in the same way a corset would just in a more shaped with. The cast isn't as thick as I would like due to me running out of mod rock so I will get more in order to cast the leaves and experiment with them peeling off the corset
13/03/2017 - PROGRESS TUTORIAL FEEDBACK
08/03/2017 - TURNPIKE LANE ART EXHIBITION FOR CHELSEA COLLAGE
08/03/2017 - TURNPIKE LANE ART EXHIBITION FOR CHELSEA COLLAGE
Worked on my designs during the day trying to transfer my research into physical designs then later on that day went to Turnpike Lane Art Exhibition - a multi sensational experience exploring love and relationships. The pieces reflected to my project through texture and shape and a empathise on flowers decaying through romantic connections.
06/03/2017 - UNIT 7 3D DRAPES WORKSHOP
06/03/2017 - UNIT 7 3D DRAPES WORKSHOP
Today we began with taking shapes out of our research and creating 3D shapes with it and using our observational drawings to inform design developments. This was really beneficial for me as struggling with silloheutte was stopping my project from moving along I feel this process will help my designs have a stronger connection to me imagery and research. However I had to go and walk for the Balenciaga crit so didn't have a chance to complete this in the lesson will work more on it at home. Final part of the lesson we began recreating it in fabric but I don't like the soft draping effect that calico gives when you work with it in this way. I got some interesting shapes but it wasn't as influential. Went home and continued in the work that I missed from being in the second year crit
Really want to get down a solid clear colour palette from this project after having a group crit with Tom and Ben - There is this collage of dried flowers in my book which Tom loves and I really like as a colour palette but its very muted and delicate tones so Im thinks of maybe exploring these combine dwwith the hot oranges of Rwanda or even yellow I think I will do some more exploration for tomorrow.
01/03/2017 - CAMPBELL ADDY PRIVATE VIEW
01/03/2017 - CAMPBELL ADDY PRIVATE VIEW
Began my work with a clear head to start working things out in my project - held Tom fit his glove toile for his project - that evening went to Campbell Addy's private view and it actually helped a lot with my research for this project. the shapes and sillohauttes created in the styling of the pictures is on the a similar grand scale that I want to explore. I also really like his colour palette of deeps reds involved in the pictures as I am still trying to explore a colour palette for this project so it a good base to start exploring. Meet some people and spoke about the possibility of working in paris for fashion week but don't think I would currently have th time on fmp to take it up.
28/02/2017 - UNIT 7 WINNING PROJECT
27/02/2017 - UNIT 7
Today was really successful - helped me to understand and get my concept down and settled in my head - it was good to be back in a routine and to start to focus again. We had to get out partner to present our brief and mine won which was exciting but also made he have to suddenly really know what I wanted to get out of today in terms of research for my project because I had to tell everyone different things for what to research for my project. It was difficult initially to be in charge of a group because I didn't want them to feel like they were wasting their time o my project. But it was very beneficial to gain other insights into my vision allowing me to relax and have a more opening idea into my project.